June 2003 Postcard

Iceland

June 1 Sjómannadaginn (seamans´ day) started in Hvammsatangi. I had a quick snack with Tryggva and Snorri and then took off for places unknown. I had kind of decided to go to Borðeyri and Buðadalur. There was not much going on in either town, I did take photos and the weather was not great but did not let that stop me or dampen my spirits. I eventually made it to Haukadal and the weather was fantastic there. It was sunny, warm and calm. I had been to Erikstaðir, the place where Leif Eriksson was born, before but not in such nice weather. I thought I would take a few photos and see if the house was open. Well it wasn’t open but I did get the photos. My final destination for the day was Stykkisholmar. I did some exploring on the way. I saw some very interesting things.

I arrived just in time for the festivities. Well I guess they had been going on for a while but it was the running on pallets that I was able to see and photograph. As the events were winding up it started to drizzle a little. I was planning on heading home when Guðmundur phoned and said that he was barbequing and had beers. I headed start home but still refused to take the Hvalfjörður tunnel. It takes a little longer but is a nice drive. This time I even witnessed a rainbow in the bottom of the fjord it was great but I don’t think the photos will turn out as well as I would hope. Had a great supper and some good Canadian Moosehead Beer.

It was a slower week at work, everything winding down. I am doing things on the computer, updating my web site and getting things organized for the summer. Meet with most of the group traveling to North America. Seems like a nice bunch. Went out to the bar with Villy, Shawn and Tricia. She showed up 2 hrs late and it was her party. The next day I drove her to the airport. I guess a little homesick I had to have a bacon and tomato sandwich. Yes that is a big thing here, first time I have bought bacon in over a year in Iceland.

Friday June 6^th I had planned on leaving a little early. I did get out of Reykjavik at 1 in the afternoon. I drove pretty well straight through to Husavik. Got my room key and had a quiet evening. Watched some TV and not much else happened.    

June 7^th, I had a great sleep, comfortable bed and quiet hotel but it was time to keep exploring. My first off road trip, and almost my last was to go up Husavikurfjall (Husavik mountain). Well that was a climb and a half and the Blazer told me that too. It overheated on me at the top and of course I got photos. The view was worth the trip. Next I ventured to Asbyrgi, a natural wonder. It is a cliff area formed in the shape of a horseshoe. They have figured out how it was formed by a great flood but I prefer the myth that Sleipnir the eight-legged horse of Oðinn the father of all gods formed it. I visited Asbygi 22 years ago but it was raining and I was not in the hiking mood. The viewpoint is a little hike in but well worth it. Kopasker was the next town I visited, small little fishing village. As I headed north the weather was getting worse, raining a little and cloudy. I ventured off the road to find the most northerly place in Iceland. The area is called Hraunhafnartangi and to me it was a really eerie place. The road in was not the greatest and the ocean just seemed so much meaner at the artic circle. The garbage, twisted metal and the coastline were uncanny. The fog and rain didn’t help much either. Then I traveled to Rauðarhöfn, it has been in the news lots because it main fishing company is laying off most of its workers and also it was to have been a good place to view the eclipse that just happened. It was quite foggy and miserable weather so I didn’t hang around long. The next town was Þórshöfn; this was a nice fishing village. I visited the church of Skeggjastaðir. It was built in 1845 and a very impressive church. There was carpet in the aisles so I even removed my boots when I entered. The minister himself built it, with no help from the bishop and local people. Bakkafjörður was another weird town the fog was just lifting and this made it interesting. The old harbor was abandoned and a new harbor built a short way from the town, not much else that could be said. I headed to Vopnafjörður. This was a really nice town and I wish I had more time to explore it. I then headed inland and visited Bustarfell, a very beautiful old and preserved farm. The museum was closed but the sights were worth the stop. As I went up the fog overtook me again but it did not last long. I did not stay on the # 1 highway for long; I wanted to go see Dettifoss, the mightiest waterfall in Europe. There too it was sunny and as I had visited it in the rain last it was much nicer this time. The waterfall itself is changing over the years. I guess erosion and nature is having its say. Then it was time to head back to Husavik. I went out for a while and took some photos and had a few beers at the local watering holes.     

June 8^th Hvitasunnadag, White Sunday; day started out cloudy in Husavik. I had a fantastic breakfast at the hotel and then hit the trail. I was not sure where I was going to end up. After such a fantastic time it did not matter much. The cloud was breaking up so I decided to check out Goðafoss. I was glad I did the falls were beautiful and I did get some sun. Next was Akureyri, after finally cleaning the Blazer I headed to the Christmas House. I was very interesting and worth seeing. I don’t know how someone can listen to Christmas Carols all year. I then visited the church Grund. I wondered why there were so many cars. Just after I arrived the service ended and out came the newly confirmed children. From there I had decided to keep going and check out Saurbær and old turf church. I was kind of disappointed especially because it was locked and I have seen better churches. Next stop Dalvik or Olafsfjörður. Not one to take tunnels I thought I would try the old road. It was steep and gravel but OK until I got into wicked fog and then the road ended. On my way back there was a naked guy sitting and sunbathing by his car. After I passed him I saw someone was coming the up the road, I saw him scamper to his car in my rear view mirror. I had to take the tunnel in the end. I didn’t stop long in Olafsfjörður; I wanted to keep going in the good weather. The trip was awesome, good visibility and lots of photo opts. I decided to go to Siglifjörður. I got to the old road, and thought why not. Now that was a road, I thought the end would never come. Well the end was in sight but I could not make it, there was just a little too much snow. Down I came and into the next tunnel. There was more fog at both ends of the tunnel but it was clear in the town. Next stop Hofsos; of course I went straight to the museum. I hoped I could get a cheap room; I got my usual place, the ministers´ house, all to myself.  I had a quiet night I think I even went to sleep too early. I awoke to a cloudy and foggy morning. I had told Valgeir that I would meet him at 10:00. We had coffee and then we continued to chat while he cleaned fish, part of the museum directors job? It started to clear so I took off. I visited Holar, a former center of the church in the north of Iceland, now a school and summer hotel. Then I went through Sauðakrokur. Fog had the best of the town so I didn’t stay long. I went north as just as I was thinking what am I doing here in all this fog it broke and the sights were wonderful. Along the coast I was in and out of the fog a little but I think it will just make me want to visit again so hopefully I can see more. I visited Kantrybær, the home of country music in Iceland. I had a great club sandwich there. When I arrived it was foggy and raining when I left a 1/2hr later it was sunny and not a cloud in the sky. I visited an old friend in Blondous, another Valgeir. He amazes me how alert and healthy he is always even though he is into his nineties. From there it was pretty well time to head home. 1988km in all, it was a great and enlightening trip. The warm welcome and interesting people really made the trip. I am off to Minneapolis so that will be on a separate postcard.

Have a great summer.

Kent Lárus